Xiè Xiè (Shei Shei) in Shanghai: The survival guide that they never put in your tour book (Part I)

Ok - Ok - Ok: This version is not about all about food, but who can resist telling our tale of China

The Guidebook and Map

Like any good tourist planning to stay three weeks in a foreign country, we picked up the Lonely Planet Guide to Mandarin. I thought to myself that I would pick up some good phrases to use with the locals. Sadly, the truth is that there is no way that you would be able to spit out these words and actually converse with the locals. In addition, I must ask, when was the last time you used these phrases when you traveled in China (my personal favorite phrases in the lonely planet phrasebook), and really, would you really understand the response if you were actually comprehensible (trust me – it has taken much practice to say Xiè Xiè (or thank you) in Manderin:

I’m an atheist (p. 139): Wŏ xìn wúshénlùn.

You’re just using me for sex (p. 138): Ní zhĭ shì yòngwŏ fàng qíngyù.

Do you have Lonely Planet guidebooks (p. 84): Yŏuméiyŏu lónelí pŭlānáitè de lǚyóu zhĭnán shū? (Is that not a plug? I’m reading from one – why need I ask?)

This item is a fake (p. 80): Zhèshì jiăhuò (Nooooo!).

Don’t get me wrong, the book has been very useful when there has been an impasse in signaling gestures and exchanging words in Mandarin and English. I have whipped that puppy out only to hear “Oh – yes, yes! Cotton (or glass – you just fill in the word). However, you are not going to use these little books for much more. So it occurred to me why aren't there real travel guides for surviving a foreign country such as China. As you will see, really there are only a few phrases to know (if briefly in the country)!

In contrast to the guidebook, the map was an invaluable thing! For $8.50, it was probably a bit expensive to buy; however, our use made it priceless. This map has both the main roads in Shanghai and the metro line. It became a lifeline and you will receive no strange looks when you whip it out for consultation at the moment of total confusion. Shanghai streets are labeled in both Chinese letters as well as Roman alphabet so it is useful for navigating the city by taxi, metro, or foot. The map is wonderful – invest in one!

Shopping

Chinese put Americans to shame in this department. There are more malls and shopping centers here than you can imagine ~ makes New York look light-weight. There are large malls that range from high-end Tiffany and Gucci to moderate priced (Kohl’s type stores) to bottom basement bargains for which I cannot liken them to any American stores. I believe that there must be a regulation that these stores must have at least five stories with each escalator taking you to a new floor of clothing, house wares, and jewelry. There is Carrefour and Lotus – Wal-Mart-like stores that sell cheap Chinese goods (it seems more ironic though to see “Made in China” in English on these items). There are little glass cages (8x8 feet) endlessly framing the halls of the metro, simulating scaled-down versions of the larger stores. After seeing only a few of these stores, your eyes begin to glaze over. Most are uninteresting – especially those malls placed conveniently in the tourist sections such as Nan Jing Road. However, it is the knock-off vendors that emerge from nowhere every ten feet, which make the shopping experience truly memorable.

Lady, Lady – DVD? Gucci? Rolex?

“Lady-Lady, you want watch? Bags? DVD? Gucci, Prada? Same shopping ~ Cheaper, cheaper ~ Follow me. Just looky-looky.” Hmmm – following a stranger down a filthy alley – that sounds safe. Initially, it was funny and I couldn’t help but laugh. By the third day, we maneuvered through the maze of vendors like seasoned pros.

Rule one: Don’t speak to these people – not even to say no or you will have a friend for life or at least for several blocks.

Rule two: Ask Frank Hu, super-manager of our serviced apartment, how to say “Go away!” in Mandarin. This may be the most important phrase you can learn and conveniently missing from our travel guide. Memorize it! It is pronounced toe-kuy (rhymes with guy). Pronounced in a firm voice, they will immediately leave. Use only when they will not leave you alone. However, start first with “Boo-yao” (meaning “no need”). This usually works unless they persist.

We learned the first rule on our first morning in a quest for Starbucks. We made contact with D who has been living here for two and one half years. “Where is the closest Starbucks?” Like lightning, we received an email, courtesy of D’s colleagues, that outlined all the Starbucks on Nan Jing Road. While there are literally nine on Nan Jing Road, they were impossible to find (we later discovered that this is because, except for one, the others are on Nan Jing West and we were on Nan Jing East). Thus, we wandered around in a pre-coffee glaze searching for the magic green sign

As we walked down the street, my five-foot eight-inch stature and blonde hair was like a neon light flashing “TOURIST.” We were approached by one of the knock-off vendors. B, delusional without caffeine, responded, “no, no. No watch – coffee.” This phrase was enough for one eager salesperson to personally find the Starbucks with the hopes that we would purchase a bag, a watch, or a postcard. Fortunately, our leisurely time spent drinking our morning coffee discouraged him and he sauntered off looking for another westerner.

As an aside, Shanghai has its bargains, but it stops at Starbucks, as well as western food in general. Starbucks prices are the same as everywhere else. Realizing that the closest Starbucks was a taxi-ride away ($1.50 each way) and coffee for two was $6.00, we decided that with two and one half weeks in China, we would be smart to buy a coffee press and make our own.

We learned the second rule after our adventures to a local market that probably never sees many western tourists. Frank recommended a market that was walking distance from our apartment. He claimed it was the largest in Shanghai. Not knowing what to expect, we headed out toward the market. As we unknowingly approached a large building which we would learn was the market, we were surrounded by five men.

Now don’t worry, China is amazingly safe for tourista, with only minor crimes (watch your pockets at night on the Bund) so we did not worry as they approached. Within seconds, the chiming sound of “Lady, Lady – Rolex, Gucci, Prada” started as predictably as chimes on a bell tower. Set on making a sale, they guided us to the building. This was truly one of the largest markets we could imagine and one not frequented by many western tourists so we were targeted.

The experience was a refreshing dichotomy of the sterile stores on Nan Jing Road and it was exhausting. At one point we were trailed by at least six people hoping to guide us to their store. Briefly, I felt a twinge of compassion for the Hollywood socialites with their constant barrage of Paparazzi. We were superstars! Despite these overbearing vendors, this market also had a lot of vendors that were polite and noninvasive. We were able to lose some of the vendors when B snapped “I will not buy anything from you because you annoy me!” I doubt they understood the words but they did understand the tone.

After seeing a t-shirt with the word “Flat Out Bean,” B wanted her own and she was bound to traverse the seven stories of the market to find it. To her dismay, it was naught to be had. However, there were many t-shirts with nonsensical phrases in English – I wonder what they thought as we pointed to a shirt and burst out laughing. We managed to buy two shirts – one with a picture of Marilyn Monroe and the printed phrase Twiggy! The other shirt sounded hilarious – “Naturally JoJo” – only to find out that there is an actual store. Unfortunately, they are getting better and better at avoiding mistakes in the names of popular brands. For those of you that wish to still find those illusive t-shirts, we recommend Carrefour where we found: “Always be happy with Murphy,” “Quilt Pig,” and our personal favorite “Spring Ethnic Nights.”

I would highly recommend a trip to a market like this for any of those adventuring souls. Not only did we amuse ourselves for hours, we were touched by a culture that one will not see in the main tourist areas. While slightly annoying, these vendors were simply hoping to make a sale and were in no way harmful. But if you go – remember the phrases “Boo-Yao” for the initial approach, but if they will not leave you alone, remember “Toe-Kuy!”

Bargaining

Another fundamental thing that you should know is the art of bargaining and when and where it is appropriate. Bargains are to be had in Shanghai but you must also know when and where. Sometimes it is appropriate; sometimes it is no different than the US.

One of our first outings was to what I call the “knock-off” market, which can be found at the Shanghai Science & Technology Museum Metro Stop. The original market was moved out of the Tourist Area as a government nod to the protection of Intellectual Property Rights. In this location, all bargaining goes, especially to the dismay of the vendors. Now B noted that the movement of this market lost the charm of the old market in which they followed you throughout the market much like our experience at the clothing market. Now they each have their little kiosks and they only beg for a sale until you move on to the next kiosk. Nevertheless, they persuade you to purchase “Tiffany, Tiffany, Gucci, Prada – yadda, yadda, yadda.”

What is most amusing is that they pretend it is the real thing. Only one vendor actually said, “No, but really good fake.” Thus, they start with prices around 280 RMB (approximately $40). I asked B, “How do you bargain here?” She replied, “Oh, they give you a price, you respond offended, walk away, and they chase you.” Seriously, I didn’t think this was true. Indeed, it is true. By the time you finish, you should be able to get what you like for 25 RMB (approximately $3) to 75 RMB ($10). If you pay more, you are crazy.

The exception: DVDs. When B visited the old market, the DVDs were everywhere. We learned quickly that the “openness” of this market has changed. Now, they keep the illegally copied DVDs out of sight. However, once B spoke up and said “where are the DVDs,” the vendors appeared from nowhere to guide her to their kiosk only to find them hidden in drawers. B was able to purchase the first three seasons of a popular American TV series (selling at home for $100) for $20. Score!!

In stark contrast, there is no bargaining (obviously) in the main malls that do not differ from our malls. There may be a little room to negotiate at the kiosk in the subway; however, a rule of thumb is that if the price is on the item, the less likelihood of bargaining. In addition, the more likelihood that the price is on the item, the more likelihood that you won’t be ripped off.

Fantasy Foodie Fusion Fun: Part Deux

Yes it has been awhile. That is how things go when C is finishing exams and I don't do my homework. For those waiting for the recipes, we apologize.

The Dinner: Remember the concept is innovative fusion. C chose (from random slips of paper) Greek and Spanish while I was (relieved) to have plucked French and Vietnamese. Having cooked Thai and Vietnamese for a number of years, these were flavors with which I was familiar. The French part would require some creativity.

After putting off any actual planning, the date was looming large and closing in fast. Time to commit! For my appetizer, I had some Diver Scallops just waiting for a special occasion. I researched Coquille St. Jacque, put a Vietnamese spin on it, and christened the dish Coquille St. Hanoi. Using no real recipe, I marinated the scallops in a mixture of fresh grated ginger, lemon zest, fish sauce, and coconut milk. I was careful not to precook them with a marinade too heavy on the citrus and then pan fried them. Under the scallops I used a steamed spring roll wrapper artfully arranged in a shell form. Green onion and red pepper added color, and a marinade related sauce zigzagged over the appetizer. Hmmm, for someone who usually eschews plating, I must admit, it looked good. The guests seconded my opinion and it quickly disappeared.

Meanwhile, C was well thought out in her approach and planned well ahead. So well in fact, she made a dry run of the dish, just to get the pastry perfect for the Saffron Infused Empanada with Spinach and Three Cheeses. The cheeses she used were feta and two types of Spanish cheese. The Spanish cheese I like to have on hand is a soft, moist, fresh, not aged type that we usually pick up at the Middle Eastern grocery. The name is novel: Best Spanish Cheese. The Empanadas disappeared as well, yummmmmm.

By alternating our dishes the food procession flowed and, having prepped well far ahead, it flowed smoothly. The vote: two for the Hanoi and two for the empanadas.

For the entree, C grilled baby lamb chops on one of the BEST salads I have ever encountered, Gazpacho Chopped Salad, which we credit to www.epicurious.com.
Frankly, we cannot wait to make it a staple next summer with our fresh from the garden tomatoes, but even mealy, hot house tomatoes during a northwest Ohio winter were transformed in this dish. I must note that C opted to leave the pork out this time in deference to one of our guests dietary restrictions.


From the A2 Kerrytown fish market I brought home a new for me fish - HAKE. The fishmonger assured me that it would have big white flakes of buttery goodness that would blend well with my flavors and physically hold up to pan frying (very French). I marinated it in fish sauce, fresh grated ginger, lemon zest, and a little cognac. Then, I quickly seared it in heavy cast iron. For accompaniment, I pulled my Asian cooking past out and soaked a package of the super fine rice noodles, chopped garlic, an egg, the noodles (drained), a shake of fish sauce, a squeeze of lemon and viola, a lovely bed of something vaguely resembling Pad Thai (Pad Thai - C questions - didn't you have Vietnamese? whatever....). Again, our guests were happily voting with empty plates.

C and I were so happy to have our good friends here for both their first time and our inaugural Fantasy Foodie dinner. Everyone was having fun, and the Playlist that C put on the Ipod fed stereo could not have been more perfect. And the best part - all of the hard parts were over! Dessert had been made the night before and only needed plating. Yeah!!

I had decided on a Grand Manier Creme Caramel recipe that I found in a Vietnamese cookbook (which happened to not that "traditionally had been steamed because Vietnamese kitchens rarely had ovens for baking"). It was beautiful as it emerged from the containers in which it had been baked. With a berry garnish, it also disappeared. The guests loved it, and unfortunately so did Tessa (who you will learn more about in the next blog). She managed to pull the tray down and eat the extra one!

C's dessert was simple, tasty, and light in design, but she opted to complicate matters with presentation in a spun sugar basket. This basket had no instructions; therefore, it was completely experimental. But C has a very well versed pastry repertoire and pulled it off. Crema catalana foam in a spun sugar basket. Coffee is served.

The blind wine tasting (hmmm - next time we will write down the names) went well. We decanted a wine with a price tag of about $50 and another, which was a silver medalist at the LA Wine Festival, costing $8.99. I asked C to include me in the voting, which ended up 4 votes for the inexpensive wine and one vote for the pricey wine. Point taken - it doesn't have to cost a lot to be a winner. Just don't serve Crane Lake!

Fantasy Foodie Fusion Fun

The Inaugratory Crew wasn't in the door two seconds, glanced at the table set with five forks to the left and two knives to the right topped with two spoon at the top, when G blurted out, "You aren't sucking us into some gourmet food group are you?" B & I just laughed -- we have been sucked into many a thing, and we are not the "sucking into type." B piped up, "And trust me, you girls aren't going to get gourmet food all the time at this house - we don't always spend two days cooking!" Once reassured, the girls relaxed for a night of Fantasy Foodie Fusion Fun.

Our guests greeted us with a wonderful gift from Loft and Home (www.loftandhome.com): a Lampe Berger Air Purifier that cleans the air. Hey - with four dogs, three cats, and constant cooking - this was the perfect gift! We opened a white and a red and eased ourselves into a night of fun.

Let's back up just a bit. Friday - after a week of spring break that was filled with work - I took off Friday and we headed to A2 (for those of you who are not local - Ann Arbor). We were in search for our ingrediants. First stop: Whole foods. I was able to get most of my ingrediants including regional Spanish olive oil. However, I still needed the the rack of lamb. B couldn't find much of her ingrediants - fresh tumeric - where in the world does one find fresh tumeric? However, before we headed out to the next stop, B was in the check-out line trying to buy a $15 card for wind energy. She was all on board until the cashier said, "You don't get to deduct it from your energy bill - it just helps the company." Whatever . . . I responded with "Put it down, we own stock in Vestas Wind Energy."

Out the door and on to Kerrytown (www.kerrytown.com). Oooooh - cute little place but B remembers it from the '70s when it was so different then . . . The butcher (Sparrow Meats) had a rack and, of course, I misread the price $25.00 for 16 (no per pound). My the price of lamb has increased . . . Never mind - fantasy foodie calls. B talked to the fish monger at Monahan's Seafood Market and he assured her that the Hake was perfect for her dish (more next time but he was soooo right!). We then went to the Everyday Wines (important for our blind winetasting). We had a diversion to the second floor. B assured that I would love the clothing there. Unfortunately, the place had changed and it became a place that didn't quite know what it wanted to be. After looking at cotton shirts for $68.00, we were out the door.

We came home around 9ish (thanks Bob for feeding Hobbie). We started cooking. B made her flan and I started my crema catalana and my marinade. At the eleventh hour I came up with the idea of a candied basket in which I would put the catalana. I was making little hard candy baskets (p.s. don't use honey). In the end they worked out but the recipe must be perfected! It was late and we went to bed. The next day we started early . . . wow! Who thought that there was so much prep. Any thought of opening our own restaurant was dead after this day. B was whining about prep work and she feared the girls wouldn't like the food. I tried to reassure her . . . the prep with worry went on . . .

There is a level of satisfaction in creating a menu and executing it. Cooking something that you have never executed before and serving it to a crowd is a stretch. B mentioned that when she cooked for a group, she was familiar with the recipe. I reminded her that this was the fun of fantasy foodie. We were executing a piece of art much like live theater. Would we succeed? Only our guests would let us know.

Next Blog: Fantasy Foodie Fusion Fun Continues: The Dinner and the Recipes

Let the Games Begin

The first fantasie foodie is upon us. As the deadline nears, B & I are formulating our menus and the competition is heating up. A recap: B has to fuse Vietnamese and French and I am fusing Greek and Spanish. Given my regions, I have struggled with creating a menu that truely appears to "fuse." In contrast, B hates the competition and is approaching it with - well procrastination. However, with her knowledge of Asian cuisine and her fantastic ability to cook, I have no doubt that she will pull it off! So what is on the menu? Here is a preview:

Appetizer

Saffron-Infused Empanada with Spinach and Three Cheeses

Coquille St. Hanoi

Entrée

Grilled Rack of Lamb with Gazpacho Chopped Salad

Cha Cha La Vong

Dessert

Crema Catalana Foam with Orange Honey Syrup

Steamed Grand Marnier Crème Caramel

Yes - the recipes will follow after the dinner . . . B threw me for a ringer when she announced that she was making a flan - I asked her, "How? Flan is soooo Spanish." She proceeded to read an excerpt, which explained that flan is steamed in Vietnam because very few homes have ovens. What could I say? I thank her now - a flan with Greek influence would have been very easy - I had to think beyond the cuisine that I associated with Spain and Greece. I was thrilled when I came across the Crema Catalana Foam in which I will infuse Greek flavor. It can only be described as Sexy!

With dishes bought, B is blowing (yes - B is a glassblower) two carafes for the blind wine tasting. It should be fun - one of the guest voters likes "expensive wines." Let's see if she can tell the difference . . . P.S. we have recruited a great connoisseur of wines who loves the idea of pitting a cheap wine against an expensive wine! We have people.

The Search for the Perfect Pizza!

We love pizza! We always have and we always will. This has led us into the quest to develop the perfect pizza - a pizza with rich, complex flavors, a crisp texture, and yes, one that is sublimely healthy - a melage of vegetables, a little bacon and cheese for flavor, and a crust that satisfies the craving for the carb. Over a period of seven months, trials by pizza stone, and a hours of research, B and I have been working on this recipe. We believe that we have created, perhaps not the perfect pizza, but rather one damn good runner-up. For those of you that love Chicago-style pizza, you can stop reading this post. This pizza will not even be in the running. This pizza is crisp and thin - it is a great meal with a big salad and it is always a hit as an appetizer. While each person has his or her preference on toppings, I will describe our favorite, which again is based on trials and combinations to create the perfect flavor.

A few technical words. I (C) have been baking for a long time. In my research, most bakers swear that great bread should be weighed - not measured. This cannot be more true! Ultimately, great baking is about the ratio of liquids to solids. It really makes a difference. Thus, the recipe below preferably should be weighed. However, I do include the measurements as well. I strongly encourage any serious Foodie to invest in a scale - Salter makes great scales for around $50.

The Crust

We believe the crust is the most critical aspect of a good pizza. It should be thin and crisp - a feat that seems to be easy. However, we quickly learned that this is much harder than one would think. We finally found the perfect recipe in The Bread Bible by Rose Levy Beranbaum. I (C - I am the designated pastry chef) follow the measurements but I don't follow her directions. So here it goes:

678 g flour [3 cups] (preferably artisan flour)
3 teaspoons instant yeast
3 teaspoons salt
3 teaspoons sugar
474 g [2 cups] warm water

Combine the flour, yeast, sugar, and salt in a bowl. Add the water. With a fork or your hands, work the dough. The dough will appear a bit dry - this is normal. Drizzle olive oil over the dough to coat the dough (the recipe calls 14 teaspoons - yikes!) - I doubt that I put more than a tablespoon. Cover and let rise at room temperature for one to six hours (longer is better).

The secret to thin, crisp crust is the pre-bake (B found this at www.pizzamaking.com - a valuable resource). Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Divide the dough into four pieces (this will make four 12-inch crusts). Roll out each piece into a 12-inch disk - this takes time and patience but you can get it that thin (and yes - I haven't mastered tossing my dough). Transfer the dough to a 12-inch round pan. I found that misting the edge of the pan with water allows me to keep the dough from losing its shape in the pan. Poke the entire shell with a fork. Bake for 3 minutes (Do not bake it more - it will dry out your crust). These can be stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week.

The Sauce

The dirty little secret: Chef Boyardee. Don't laugh - B brought it home one day and I said to her, "OK - I love Chef Boyardee, but it isn't really gourmet." Chef Boyardee was a childhood favorite and a comfort food. But really, it is cheap! B responded, "It was the only one without sugar. I looked at every label on every can - they all have 'high frutose corn syrup.' I loathe sweet pizza sauce!" We both loathe sweet sauce, the worst thing you can do to a pizza in our mutal opinion.

The Cheeses

Cheese is another critical component. We use a combination of Kraft parmesan cheese (the cheap, mealy, crumbly stuff) and Trader Joe's Quattro Formaggio. This provides a rich, complex flavor. If you don't have a Trader Joe's nearby, I guess mozzarella will do . . .

The Toppings

Mushrooms
Red pepper
Green pepper
Bacon (AKA "the food of the gods")
Onions
Banana peppers rings (see above - we take banana pepper rings seriously*)
Crushed red pepper
Basil

* If you are serious about your banana peppers rings, Sam's Food Club has one gallon jars for about $5.00 - If you hate Walmart, try COSTCO (We're sorry - we don't have a COSTCO yet)

The Assembly

Place one of the pre-baked shells on a pizza paddle. Spread the sauce on the shell. Next, put the diced mushrooms, red peppers, green peppers, and bacon on the shell. Lightly sprinkle the pizza with parmesan (see below). Add a layer of Quattro Formaggio. Finally, add the onions, banana peppers, crushed red pepper, and basil.

Place the rack on the upper third of the oven. Bake pizza at 400 degrees for 20 minutes directly on the rack. Enjoy the sin of gluttony without the guilt!

We cringe every time we see the ad for the "unnamed gas station" featuring their signature pizza-on-the-go - a disgusting, gloppy inch-thick layer of congealed cheese with some pepperoni wads interspersed across the slice - YUCK!! I (C) used to love take-out pizza (especially Papa John's). Now, I won't touch it (sorry Papa John) - we are spoiled (and thinner).

What do the critics say? As mentioned above, it has been a great hit at our dinner parties. We usually serve it as an appetizer. At our recent party, a friend was so taken by the crust - I sent him home with two (the gay boy can't bake!) pre-bake shells. Another friend who was here today said, "the crust is so thin, I can't believe it holds up." Numerous people have requested the recipe - so here it is. We hope that you enjoy it!

P.S. As I mentioned above, we still think it isn't the "perfect pizza," we anticipate building a pizza/bread wood-fire oven within the next year.

Welcome to Fantasy Foodie!

Over a not-so-exciting meal, B and I started talking about building the perfect menu. "I bet you that we could build a great menu!" I said to B, and as we twisted the conversation, we devised a fun plan. We would invite friends over and cook against each other. Our friends would vote and we would have a night of entertainment.

OK - we don't pretend that this is a novel idea! We have watched every episode of Top Chef (This season - Sam should have won!) and we are avid lovers of No Reservations! and Anthony Bourdain’s books. But if you have ever been to Northwest Ohio, you will soon learn that you can only be a culinary critic if you are the lover of the fine dive. For example, we also love – love -- love the best bar with food in Tontogany, Ohio -- Doc’s.

AND, they have PURSE HOOKS at the bar! Fabulous! However, despite our love of the dive, we love gourmet food (one day we will tell my pissy sushi story) and we strive for making great food given our resources.

So – how does Fanstasy Foodie work? B and I will choose a theme for each meal. We invite 6 people to our house and prepare an appetizer, a main dish and side, and a dessert. We present the dishes to our guests and they vote on their favorite. They will vote on presentation and flavor for each course (so nobody really loses)! We also have the mystery wine challenge. At each meal, we select one wine in the $5.00-$15.00 range and pit it against the $25.00-$50.00 range. Our guests vote on the best wine! We hope that our idea will create enough buzz that we can eventually donate our Fantasy Foodie event to charitable fundraisers.

With the concept in our mutual mind, we took a trip to Dee-troit (OK - we saw it on several billboards -- only God knows why)! Our trip led us to Crate and Barrel! Yes, all of you urbanites are rolling your eyes right now; however, we don't even have one in our town (although B was convinced that we did have one)! As two women recently divorced, no